Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Native Portland Series, 6: Place Names

Realizing the place names I have become so familiar with represented real people and real cultures was one of my first "aha" moments when I began to become aware of the indigenous host peoples here.

Around Portland, you encounter many names that are of local tribes, some from Pacific Northwest tribes, and some that appear randomly chosen from a list of North American tribes (Tualatin, I'm talking to you).  There is no exhaustive list of Native American place names in the area that I could find.  Maybe this is a good project for a school's Native American studies curriculum!!

It was beyond my resources to organize these or categorize them, but I supply my list, at the bottom, and have chosen just one to explore, because it is near to my house.  If you encounter these streets, rivers, counties, cities, and the like, I challenge you to do a simple Bing or Google search and find out what is behind the name.  From my own neighborhood, I submit:



Taken from the Appaloosa breed site:  The Appaloosa is a breed of horse that was developed by the Nez Perce from stock introduced when the Spanish first brought horses to the continent in the 16th century. Prior to the introduction of the horse, the Nez Perce were fishing people. They became adept horse breeders, and became storied among Native Americans for their hunting skills, craftsmanship and very fine horses. Meriwether Lewis commented on the breed in his diaries from the expedition in 1806:

"The horses appear to be of an excellent race; they are lofty, eligantly (sic) formed, active and durable...some of these horses are pided (sic) with large spots of white irregularly scattered and intermixed with black, brown, bey (sic) or some other dark color."

There is a beautiful story that connects to the Appaloosa, about restoration.  It concerns C.E.S. Woods (1852-1944), a noted Portland attorney, advocate, and artist, a friend of radicals Emma Goldman, Margaret Sanger and John Steinbeck.  As a young man he fought as an infantry officer in the Nez Perce war in 1877, which resulted in the Nez Perce being exiled from their lands. Woods  came to befriend Chief Joseph, and his ancestors have been involved in restoring breeding stock to the Nez Perce. You can read a little about it here.



Photo: 
Apaloosa Museum 






Other Place Names encountered in the Greater Portland area:

Siskiyou St
Klickitat St
Multnomah St
Tillamook St
Siletz Ct.
Chinook St
Umpqua Lane
Umatilla St
Molalla Ave
Kalapuya Dr (Silverton)
Yamhill Dr
Santiam Dr                                     
Shasta Trail
Clatsop St
Camas Lane
Nez Perce Ct
Cayuse Ct
Appaloosa Way
Alsea Ct
Chetco Ct (Keizer)
Klamath Ct
Modoc Ct
Siuslaw Lane
Takelma Ct (Keizer)
Coquille Dr
Wasco St
Wishram Ct
Cowlitz Dr
Yaquina Ct
Modoc Ct
Chehalis St

The Tualatin collection (some of these are regional, most aren't!)

Seminole Trail
Shoshone Dr
Nisqually Ct
Apache Dr
Cree Circle
Arapaho Rd
Mohawk St
Warm Springs St
Tonka St
Iroquois Dr
Ochoco Dr
Chelan St
Makah Dr
Winema Dr 
Dakota Dr
Moratoc Dr  
Mandan Dr
Choctaw St
Iowa Dr
Oneida St
Seneca St

Places:

Clackamas:     River, County
Multnomah:    County, Suburb
Tualatin:         City, River
Willamette:     River


Native Portland Series, 5: Lillian Pitt Convention Center Installation and the Tilikum Crossing

Find all Native Tour stops on the tour map.

Convention Center Art

One of the blessings of my Native Portland tour has been learning something about celebrated Northwest Native artists.  Among them is Lillian Pitt, a Wasco elder, whose works are featured at multiple locations on the Native Portland tour.  Pitt's website notes that her ancestors have lived in and near the Columbia River gorge for some 10,000 years.  She works in clay, bronze, glass, and paper, and sees her work as directly relating to her ancestors, people, the environment, and animals. This exhibition of bronze panels at the Oregon Convention Center is a stunning series of images set to poetry by Native poet, writer and artist Gail Tremblay, sculpted by Pitt, and fabricated by Ken MacIintosh. You can spend many hours studying them--they are amazing.

Photo, Lillian Pitt.











We will see more art from Pitt on the Native Portland tour.

Tilikum Crossing

Not far from the Convention Center is a new Tri-Met pedestrian/light-rail bridge (that is, no cars) that will cross the Willamette River, opening in Summer of 2014.  After the gathering of names from the public, the name "Tilikum" was chosen as a finalist, a Chinook word for "people." At this point, the Confederated Tribes of the Grand Ronde, home to some of the Chinook bands and a center of efforts to restore tribal status to the Chinook, stepped in to consult with Tri-Met to share their feelings about the name and spelling: Tilikum was chosen, and the tribes helped inaugurate the naming ceremony with drumming and prayer.  When many tribes were consolidated at Grand Ronde, they did not all share the same language, but shared a common trading language called "Chinook Wa-wa," which is the focal point of efforts to keep the language alive at Grand Ronde.  The name thus honors other local tribes who were not Native Chinook speakers, who still might have used "Tilikum" in their shared jargon.  We can hope that at its opening, we will have an opportunity to learn more about the people whose language contributed the name Tilikum Crossing.




Native Portland Series, 4: Lewis and Clark College, and a Mysterious Totem Pole

Find all Native Tour stops on the tour map.

Lewis and Clark Flanagan Chapel


Nestled in the hills of one of the most elite residential neighborhoods in the greater Portland area is Lewis and Clark College.  As you can imagine, Lewis and Clark figure prominently in Oregon: they literally blazed the trail for settlement, and although they never ventured up the Willamette River, their expedition ended at the mouth of the Columbia River, some 70 miles north and west.  On the leafy, quiet campus of this liberal arts school are some nods to the connection (for better or for worse) between Oregon and national history and the Native people.  I do not know much about how the school makes an effort to encompass a consciousness of Native history and present in their curriculum or in their outreach to Native communities, but I did encounter the following public art there.


The prominent Agnes Flanagan Chapel, completed in 1969, is designed by architect Paul Thiry to resemble the conical shape of Northwest Coast Native American structures.  The bridge is flanked by figures of the four evangelists, Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, designed by Chief Lelooska of the Cherokee tribe, who apparently designed them to combine Christian symbolism with the symbolism of Northwest Coast Native Americans.  Can anyone tell which is Matthew, Mark, Luke or John? I cannot. I think these are really cool.  I hope the students appreciate them!




 



Sacagawea

Around the back of the Frank Manor House is one of two Sacagawea statues that I know of in the greater Portland area.  Sacagawea is most famous for having accompanied Lewis and Clark on their expedition and she was instrumental in saving them numerous times.  (For an excellent site dedicated to the real story of Sacagawea, which is extremely sad, see here.)  This one, installed in 2003, is by Glenna Goodacre, supposedly the same person who designed the portrait on the Sacagawea dollar which none of use.  This is a beautiful representation of her with her little son Jean-Baptiste peeping over her shoulder.  It is regrettable that it includes no information about a remarkable Shoshone woman who, through no choice of her own, and receiving nothing but disease and pain for her service, put her mark on history.  


 



Wouldn't it be nice if Lewis and Clark put
an inscription on the base?








A Mysterious Totem Pole

Not far from Lewis and Clark, next to the Chart House restaurant on Terwilliger Boulevard and overlooking Portland, is an absolutely gigantic totem pole.  I have never been able to find anything out about it; it pre-dates the restaurant. Apparently, there was an "Indian Curio Shop" on this location dating to the 1930's, which may account for it.  In any case, it's pretty spectacular.  



 






Native Portland Series, 3: Oregon City and the Pow Wow Maple Tree

Find all Native Tour stops on the tour map.

The Museum of the Oregon Territory

Steps away from the Oregon City falls viewpoint is the Museum of the Oregon Territory.  This museum, part of the Clackamas County Historical Society, reveals its point of view when you walk in the door and find this crazy window memorializing settler-in-chief John McLoughlin next to the front door, which was in the original nearby St. John's (I am sure it is a coincidence) Catholic Church.  I suspect the church found it slightly embarrassing and donated it to the museum when they got their new building.


So yes, the museum is largely devoted to the history of European settlement in the Willamette Valley.  When I asked the very nice attendant at the door if the museum contained exhibits about the history of the contact between settlers and the first peoples in the region, she winced and said something to the effect that she had heard that it was not a history to be proud of.

But she did point me to museum's large room dedicated to the Native people, and I spoke with a volunteer guide who has devoted a lot of his time to becoming knowledgeable about the indigenous peoples of Oregon.  There are many artifacts and photos to peruse, and plenty to learn.  The real issue is in its lack of connection between the rest of the museum, which is dedicated to settlement history. So you have the first peoples, portrayed largely as "pre-history," and then the "real" history, that is "our" history--and the twain do not meet.  To me this indicates a weakness in the very premise of the museum's historical approach.






Fishing spears
Petroglyph, found near confluence of
the Clackamas and Willamette Rivers
 
End of the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center

Just down the road from the museum is another historic site in Oregon settlement, the End of the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center.  The site marks the actual end of the trail which streamed hundreds of thousands settlers across the land starting in the 1830's, replaced when the railroads were built around 1869.  The Center contains virtually no reference to the impact of the trail on the lives of the Native people, although there is a faint reference to the Nez Perce on a step ("still stepping on Native people," it seems to say), and an excellent map documenting the lands "ceded" by Native peoples, which was put up by the Confederated Tribes of the Grand Ronde.

 


The Pow Wow Maple Tree, Gladstone

Who knew about this tree?  I sure didn't.  Just across the Clackamas River from Oregon City in the little town of Gladstone, this fine old big-leaf maple tree sits in a residential neighborhood.  Just a few steps away from the Clackamas River, it is almost 230 years old, and was apparently a meeting place for tribes and councils from earlier days.  It was later the site of the first Clackamas County Fair and Oregon State Fair in 1860 and 1861, respectively.  It is a historic tree, but apparently suffering from ill health.  Visit it and ask it to tell you what it thinks about what it has seen in its long lifetime.   





Native Portland Series, 2: Willamette Falls

Find all Native Tour stops on the tour map.

From both West Linn and Oregon City, you can see views of Willamette Falls, which was of major importance to Native peoples in history (the drawing below is from 1842), and is still a fishing site for them today.



The Clackamas band of the Kalapuya and other Kalapuya bands came here to harvest lamprey, salmon, sturgeon, and other fish. It was also a major trading site, as was the Celilo Falls further up the Columbia.  The Kalapuya and Chinook often traveled back and forth between the Columbia and Willamette Rivers to trade.  

The falls are the largest falls in the Pacific Northwest by volume, and the seventeenth widest in the world.  Today, tribes from the Warm Springs and Grand Ronde reservations still fish here.  Their importance in the lifeways of Native peoples is hardly captured by the historical sign at the Oregon City viewpoint:


To settlers, the falls seemed first and foremost to be a potential source of power.  A power station was built there in 1888, and a 14-mile transmission line to Portland followed in 1889.   Locks were built, and paper plants dominated the falls starting as early as 1866.  The old Blue Heron paper plant is now closed, and is deteriorating, while the Clackamas County officials are trying to figure out what to do with it.  

These pictures are from the Oregon City side from McLoughlin* Avenue, except for the first view, which is from the West Linn side, along the I-205 freeway at mile 7.5.  






John McLoughlin's name is all over Oregon history:  he is a "founding" father in settler history.  In 1829, he established a land claim at the falls in the name of the Hudson's Bay Company, his employer.  His bust is at the Oregon City falls viewpoint. 




Native Portland Series, 1: Encountering the Native in the greater Portland area

This series is for a class I am completing called "North American Indigenous History and Mission." It's also one step along pathway of learning something about the first peoples of the land I now regard as my home.

The Native Portland project

Last year I posted here about how I am coming to the "aha" about the first peoples here in my everyday encounters.  It is interesting to see what is present about their lives here, what has survived, what we settlers have memorialized and glossed over in the way we understand our history here, and the degree to which we give voice or speak in our own voice about the first peoples.  I decided to begin to pay attention to where the Native history of Portland still speaks, whether in bad statues, minimalist accounts of history, or even in present, vital activity among us.  While overwhelmingly white and not very ethnically diverse, even for a city of its size, there are some 36,000 Native Americans residing in Portland, the 9th largest community in a United States city.  As a resident of the Portland area, where can we encounter Nativeness today?

I wanted this to be my own discovery tour; it is not meant to be ideological, only curious and open.  That said, I have a bias that the way we portray and build on history is largely to the advantage of the dominant people.  What we remember, what we choose to forget, and what we re-tell in our own voice is a construct, in the service of creating a narrative that works for "us." That said, I don't claim to know "the truth" about how what is here came here and I do not speak as a voice for Native people.  I see and write from the perspective of a person slowly working to strip away the constructs as I have been taught them and absorbed them.  I am a work in progress.  I will share some opinions and observations at the end, but I hope to leave room for others' own conclusions as well.  

A few notes, about the map:  
  1. This map's 25 listings only represent what I have discovered in the greater Portland area.  Much rich history is to be found all over the state.  Perhaps this map can be added to by others!!  
  2. On the map, and in the subsequent postings, I have done my best to explain what I saw, but I am not a historian.  Please do not consider my posts to be definitive in terms of historicity.  I have used readily available sources, but I have not been able to verify them.  
  3. My list is no doubt incomplete!  I welcome contributions. 
  4. Subsequent blog posts in the "Native Portland Series" will drill into the sites on this map and share my observations about what I found. 
  5. All photos taken by me, which may account for their quality, unless otherwise indicated.  
First the "Native Tour" map:  (the picture just shows what it looks like…click the link to find the map!)  When you go to the link you can click on each pin to find the location and a brief description of what I found.  

Thursday, May 2, 2013

The land and us…In which Marianne, the ultimate settler, begins to come to grips with her lifetime of disconnection from the land


A few weeks ago in a Missiology class (Missiology=the study of Christian mission—we study it because we still have a lot to learn!) we had a visitor to class:  Ched Myers, a theologian, political activist, 5th generation Californian, and lover of land.   By way of engaging us, Ched gave us a little pop quiz to determine how many of us knew something about the land we are in.   Some of the questions he asked:   Close your eyes and point north.   Where do storms usually come from in your region?   Name three edible, native plants to your region.   Name three species of native animals that are now extinct.  Where does your garbage go?  Where does your water come from?  Who are the first peoples of the land you are on?   And so on.   

We sat there.  A few stabs at answers--maybe one or two of us had one or two of them.   Really, we were all pathetic.   Even Ched seemed surprised.  It was embarrassing to me (of course, not knowing things for me is always embarrassing.)  But you know, it hit me:   This is not Trivial Pursuits!!   This is about relationship.   I have been in Oregon since 1988—longer than I have lived anywhere.  I adore this place, and one of the reasons I adore it is its incredible beauty and life.   When was I planning to learn something about the land I am in, and begin to make it my friend?  I began to see how this is a responsibility to me as a guest in this part of God’s beautiful creation.   As I am a good guest in someone’s house, I try to leave it as I found it; I acknowledge the gift of hospitality given to me, and I appreciate what I can learn about my host from the way she has created this beautiful dwelling place she is sharing with me.  Yet I have not done this for the land I live in—I just moved in.  As we sat in class feeling inadequate, it was not about the facts not known--we were being gently chided for being bad guests.  As Ched put it, we were being theologically disrespectful of the Creator.  Ouch. 

In the wonderful way that my studies this semester have blended into each other, processing this insight from one class has been informed by my learning in another class, about the theology and ethic of the land, particularly from the vantage point of indigenous peoples.   My cohort is mostly Native Americans and Canadians, and there are a few of us are settlers (I call myself the ultimate settler because my English ancestors settled in this country as far back as Mayflower times; my Scottish ancestors came in the early 19th century and married into plantation families.  All of them left their native lands behind, who knows how far back.)   Friends in my cohort are teaching me something about what it means to hold place as central to a spiritual worldview, and the scales are beginning to fall from my eyes.   I have realized that we settlers are the ones who introduced disconnection from place, by moving native peoples off the places that were at the root of their identity and imbued their spiritual traditions and practices.  We are the ones who introduced the concept of land as existing for human use, of viewing nature merely as “scenery,” sort of like the physical version of the wallpaper on my Mac.   We are the ones who created an artificial separation between wilderness and those managed areas where everything natural is exploited for the use of humans, and where we live apart from other animals and our neighbors in creation.   The concept of ourselves as “in” land, dwelling alongside other creatures, adapting to the diverse particularities of the land we are in, and partnering with the rest of creation to exist together:  these are actually concepts embedded in the Bible’s stories of creation, concepts which we have lost over generations of settlement, and concepts which can be retaught to us by those peoples on the earth who always understood them, and never unlearned them.   (For a beautiful expression of the intersection between creation understood as Biblical shalom and the harmony way of indigenous peoples of North America, I recommend Randy Woodley’s book; see below under "Resources.")

The injustice of separating native peoples from their land is another issue, although by no means unrelated.  What I sense is how our dominant society’s disconnection from God’s created world is killing us, physically and spiritually.  What I sense is the generosity and love of native people’s desire to help us see this alternate way.  While I applaud the efforts of environmentalists, in some of their efforts we still see a dualism between humans and “the rest of creation.”  In native peoples there is a deep understanding that we are all in it, together.  (It is a source of some bemusement to native peoples that we Westerners are only now “discovering” this interconnectedness.)

Because our settled state spans so many generations, I find myself distrusting a group of people like me to find our way back by ourselves.  Because we have waved the Bible around for millennia and nevertheless managed to get it so, so wrong, I am not convinced the revelation of God’s shalom in the Bible is sufficient for us to heal this broken link.  I believe we must understand that there is revelation elsewhere as well:  in nature itself, and in the stories, experiences and accumulated knowledge of indigenous peoples.  We need to be retaught--we need to listen to these teachers.   

I am blessed to be in a cohort of people who can help teach me.   But I also have to act.  What else can I do?  To start with, I can start getting curious about the voice of the land as it really is.  I began to read about the first peoples of this area:  the Kalapuya Indians, who we have moved to the Grand Ronde Reservation.   Among them, bands of Tualatin (this would be the people of my own city of West Linn), the Yamhill, the Pudding River Indians.   Nearby, the Molalla.  On the coast, the Salishan, Siletz, Nestucca.  These are names I know from town names, forests, and rivers.  How different to think of these not as points on a map, but as the homes of people in which we are guests.   The next step I can take is to learn more about how the Tualatin lived.  What did they know about their land that I don’t know?  As I dig into this, once again I hear names:  Camas (a plant whose roots were a staple, and the name of a town up the Columbia River—we see its purple flowers throughout the region, and may know it as camassia), huckleberries, acorns from the oak savannahs, trapping, hunting and fishing of elk, deer, salmon and, from the Willamette Falls, eel.   The people followed the seasons and knew intimately how and where plants and animals flourished according to these cycles.  When I start to consider their lives I begin to see how constructed the life I live is in this land, and how little it has to do today with how it was originally created to be.   Ched Myers talks about this in the context of bioregion—understanding how all the pieces of each distinct bioregion are gathered together to make it a complete whole.   When we consider this, we consider the deep shalom of creation, and the disruption of the whole when any part is disrupted. 

In addition to the deep enjoyment and spiritual connection which is a great gift to us and a source of healing, Ched believes that at the root of knowing our bioregion more intimately is mission—that all of mission must include our relationship with earth itself.   He talks about this as “re-placement.”  It is the reclamation of the symbols of redemption which are indigenous to the bioregion in which we who claim to represent the church have set up shop.   It is about finding and taking to heart the songs and stories of the peoples of the land.   As he says, “these can be woven together with the symbols, stories and songs of biblical radicalism.  This will necessarily be a local, contextual and personal exercise….” 

I have begun to consider how this can imbue ministry and mission.   I will never visit anywhere again without learning something about the host peoples of the land I am in, and to try to approach the place with the respect and intimacy they had cultivated.    I have begun a modest nature walk ministry at my church, where we will consider not just the “scenery” around us, but the spiritual relationship we are meant to have with the rest of creation as we move within it.   I realize I am truly, as the saying goes, a babe in the woods.   Nevertheless, my journey begins.   Tiptoeing back into the creation, finding my own piece and my own place within the diverse cosmic mystery, the place where I was created to be.  Back to shalom.



Camassia in an oak savannah, West Linn.  Photo credit:  Kate Bryant.

Resources:

About the culture and lifeways of the tribes of the Grande Ronde.  Be sure to click through to an interactive display here on the site of the Confederated Tribes.    

About Ched Myers' ministry and ecojustice.  

Bioregional awareness quiz  

Randy Woodley’s book, Shalom and the Community of Creation.